A Golden Brew

An artisan coffee bearing Duke’s name—and the special gift he gave to cast and crew—opens its flagship shop at Fort Worth Stockyards.

Written by Constance Dunn

At the end of filming a movie, John Wayne had a ritual: Gift each cast and crew a coffee mug. Distinctive for its gold handle, each mug bore the title of the film that just wrapped and an inscription (“Bob from Duke” it might read). It was a small token of the star’s appreciation—something personal and practical to remember their time together on set. For many years artist Bob Williams supplied the decorative touch on these mugs, creating colorful, light-hearted imagery related to the film. Given their rarity and provenance from Duke himself, today these mugs are sought-after collector items, often fetching thousands of dollars at auction.

It’s in the convivial spirit of Duke’s gold mugs that a new coffee venture has been named after him. John Wayne Gold Handle Coffee Company churns out a signature line of artisan coffee that’s available online, and is opening its flagship coffee house at the Fort Worth Stockyards this month. As for the coffee—expect a brew made from 100% Arabica beans, rich in flavor and often with notes of chocolate. There are three roasts, light, medium, dark, with the most popular, the Gold Handle medium roast, a full-bodied South American blend with well-balanced acidity and notes of baker’s chocolate and molasses, carmel and red cherries. An organic version of is also available, as are decaf and espresso brews.

The expert behind the beans is Tim Coonan, a former executive chef who switched gears from fine dining to coffee, starting by roasting beans in his garage before launching his Big Shoulders Coffee. (Chicagoans might know of Coonan by his half a dozen Big Shoulders coffee shop locations in the Windy City.) Gold Handle coffee beans are sourced from farmers with whom Coonan has long-standing relationships, then fresh-roasted in Chicago and shipped out. You can order the coffee online by the bag, whole bean or freshly ground.

The Stockyards, a buzzing capital of the American West that’s undergone a vivid resurgence during the last decade, is an ideal place to host anything John Wayne. Those looking to visit the Gold Handle Coffee Company in Fort Worth will know they’re at the right place when entering the cozy shop on Exchange Street with exposed brick, wood floors and a wall mural of well-known Western faces, including Duke. Expect a well-considered menu of specialty drinks and espresso bar offerings, and there’s also the purist’s house drip. Nicely caffeinated, you can then make an afternoon of it by strolling a few minutes away to John Wayne: An American Experience, a Texas-sized exhibit of nearly 10,000 square feet giving fans and movie buffs an up close and personal immersion into the life and career of the American icon.

Photographs courtesy of Gold Handle Coffee